Shaun Tomson is experienced. He's
careened along the edge of being out of control riding a single-fin on top of
a foam ball at Pipe. He’s competed against the best surfers of his generation
and found ways to win. His place in the history of surfing is firmly secured as
the reef that creates the break he chose as a proving ground. He’s a former world
champion and that can’t be undone. While his accomplishments as a surfer are
duly noted, they’re just the beginning of who he is. Tomson generously tells
stories about his past not just to relive them but to inspire others to live
more fully.
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| Shaun Tomson sharing the Surfer's Code with an audience in Santa Cruz |
Speaking with Tomson before his
visit to Santa Cruz promoting his new book The
Code it was clear that he has a unique view of our world and a plan for
action. One of South Africa’s native sons, Tomson is connected to a lineage of
people who have worked to create alliances across cultural divisions. He talks
and writes about the inspiration he’s drawn from Nelson Mandela and Ghandi who
both have deep roots in his homeland. He’s also candid about his father and his
son and the part that they play in his life’s work. His writing is a way of
paying homage to his influences and giving something back to the culture that
nurtured him. It’s a way of remembering, yes, but it’s also a recipe to renew
the spirit, to recharge the will to live.
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| Pat O'Neill and Shaun Tomson |
As a result, The Code is a book about self-empowerment and social consciousness.
Tomson cares about young people and he cares about their place in the world
world. As he says: “They’re the ones who are going to change things.” He’s seen
change firsthand, too, both on a personal and a national level. Born in South
Africa during Apartheid, Tomson witnessed the transition to democracy.
Attributing the success of this radical cultural shift to the will and spirit
of Nelson Mandela, who he considers a hero, Tomson emphasizes the importance of
inspiration.
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| Hillary Bryant, Mayor of Santa Cruz, was present for the talk |
“To imagine that Mandela lived in
that tiny cell for 27 years and came out without a trace of bitterness—that’s
the reason people follow him.” He also discussed visiting Ghandi’s quarters in
Durban. “Seeing his notebooks, and seeing where he started his work really
motivated me.” When I asked him
how he came to value their ethos and how he developed his sense of conscience
he attributed it to his family and his upbringing. “Growing up in a Jewish
household, I was very much aware of the impact the Second World War had on
people.”
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| John Hunter, enjoying the vibe |
His father was also a huge
influence on Shaun, introducing him to the life aquatic at a very early age. “I
learned to swim in the ocean.” His father was a professional swimmer, but he
suffered an attack by a shark and the shark’s teeth destroyed his ability to
move through the water by his own power. This devastating event could have
easily diminished his spirit. Instead, he shifted from being in the water to
sharing the experience with others. Organizing contests and finding ways to get
young people involved with the ocean, Shaun says: “He was something like a
Godfather of the beach.”
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| Elfin Saffer, listening to Tomson's presentation |
Formed in part by this aggregate of
influences, Tomson would go on to become a professional surfer and to travel
the world in the pursuit of tubes. His desire to create alliances, to work
toward a world with greater equality, did not lessen his competitiveness. As
Shaun says: “I surfed hard, with full commitment.” His drive to be the best and
to prove his worth against the best surfers in the world is part of the dynamic
balance that makes up the man. He has that rare combination of self-confidence
and humility.
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| Ward and Ben Coffey, stoked to be in attendance |
For those of you familiar with Surfer’s Code, this new book will both
add to the kit of tools for finding purchase, for finding a way to obtain
leverage, in a world turbulent with energy and change. Charged with the emotional
connection Tomson creates by sharing his most painful and proud stories, The Code is a powerful book about making
your own way through our times.
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| Tomson's new book, hot off the press! |
